Tips for a kook

““You either do it or don’t do it.””

His response to my “I’ll try” when he gave tips for me to become a better surfer:

1.       Keep feet together when paddling – when attempting to catch a wave AND when paddling to the lineup. Helps with balance. If you stay streamlined, no need to kick.

2.       When paddling, have arms right above the surface of the water while reaching forward.

3.       Duck dive. Push the nose of the board down while my leash foot is on the stringer in the back, staying balanced, and then bend my knee, push the back of the board down so the nose will go up to complete the duck dive.

4.       Arch your back, head up so you can see oncoming waves.

5.       When preparing to catch a wave, always check the inside to see if there is someone paddling for the wave already. Don’t drop in, and if you do by accident, apologize.

He is a local surfer, a Concessions regular. Everytime I see him in the water now, he asks me, "Have you been practicing?"

I didn’t catch many waves today – actually I ate it at least 5x’s, but my budding friendships with surfers who surf as naturally as they breathe, their good nature and effort in spending some time to teach me, their spirit of aloha - this is all part of the ocean telling me, “Welcome home.”